Building a Fragrance
FLORAL NOTES
Floral:
Floral notes are dominated by the scent of flowers. Single floral notes are capturing the fragrant spirit of a particular flower (soliflore), while floral bouquet combines fragrances of several flowers in a single and harmonious note. Floral notes may rely on fragrant essences of real flowers, but very often floral notes combine synthetic and natural material.
Soft Floral (Aldehyde):
Animal, powdery or slightly woody notes often enhance the floral bouquet. The top note is a marriage of aldehydes and hesperidia.
Floral Oriental:
Sweet, warm, powdery base typical of this group harmonizes with such flowers like gardenia, tuberose, tiare or with a spicy note of carnation
Spicy:
PEPPER
NUTMEG
MACE
CLOVE BUD
GINGER
PINK PEPPER
CINNAMON
PIMENTTO
BAY
EUGENOL / METHYL EUGENOL
CARYOPHYLLENE
CARNATION
HERBACEOUS:
DRIED GRASS
HAY
TONKA BEANS
LIATRIX
CELERY
COUMARINE
LACTONES
FOENUGRECUM
AMYL SALICYLATE (CLOVER, MELILILOT)
LOVAGE
WOODY:
CEDARWOOD
VETYVER OIL
CEDAROME
SANTAL
VETYRISIA
VERTOFIX
CEDRYL ACETATE
VETYVERYL ACETATE
LEATHER:
CUIR DE RUSSIE
CARAMEL (FURANEOL)
CUSTARD (MALTOL)
OLIBANUM
MYRRH
LABDANUM
CISTE
CASTOREUM
EARTHY MOSSY:
TREA-MOSS
OAK-MOSS
PATCHOULY
MOUSSE DE SAXE
OXYDE DE ROSE
GEOSMINE
MOUSSE – CRYSTAL
VANILLA:
VANILLA BEANS
BENZOIN BALSAM
PEROU BALSAM
TOLU BALSAM
AMBREINES
HELIOTROPINE
VANILINE CUSTARD
AMBER & MUSK:
MACROCYCLIC MUSKS
AMBRETTOLIDE
MUSK KETON
AMBROXAN
ISOE SUPER
AMBREINE
AMBRETTE SEEDS
BOISAMBRENE FORTE
ANIMAL:
ANYMALYS
CIVETTE
CASTOREUM
ANIMAL MUSK
MUSCONE
SKATOL
INDOL
FRESH NOTES
Aromatic (Fougère):
Aromatic notes are usually combined of sage, rosemary, cumin, lavender and other plants which possess a very intensive grass-spicy scent. They are often combined with citrusy and spicy notes. Aromatic compositions are typical of fragrances for men.
Citrus:
Citrus fragrances’ compositions are based on lemon, orange, bergamot, grapefruit or mandarin, with other citrusy, aromatic and tart notes for men and floral notes for women.
Water:
Compositions of this group include fresh accords of sea water, mountain breeze and clean linen and are mostly found as fragrances for men.
Green:
Green notes can add a sharper freshness to the floral bouquet. Compositions of this group include accentuated green notes of grass or leaves, besides aromatic components (lavender, rosemary, wood). Galbanum is a typical ingredient in this type of perfume as well as combinations that evoke freshly-cut grass.
ORIENTAL NOTES
Oriental fragrances with dominant amber are placed in a separate group thanks to their accentuated warmth and sensuality. Their opulent bouquet includes intoxicating and intensive substances such as musk, vanilla, exotic resins and wood, often accompanied with exotic flowers and spices.